Monday, November 24, 2008

Container Gardening: Consider the Container First

Container gardening has become all the rage over the last few years. Every time I pick up a gardening magazine or peruse a gardening website, I can rest assured I'll find an entire section devoted to the subject. I can also guarantee there will be tons of information at my disposal on how to choose complimentary color combinations for my containers or how to match foliage structures to the container's design elements or even how to layer spiky/bushy/viney plantings in that same said container for dramatic visual effect. But, where is the actual aspects of the container ever addressed?

So, let's talk containers.

Container depth (priority #1)
In my opinion, no other factor is as critical to successful container gardening than depth. Nothing is more frustrating than plantings that either don't grow well or do grow well at first but then quickly fizzle out. If what's above the rim of the container is lush with foliage and blossoms, then what's below the rim has to be a healthy root system. Shallow containers are prohibitive to healthy root systems. There are only two reasons to purchase shallow containers, 1) the container is going to be sited in a continuously shady location or 2) the container is going to be home to cacti or succulents. Shallow containers assimilate dessert conditions perfectly when placed in direct sunlight.
As far as I'm concerned, if a container can't hold at least 24 inches of soil for root development and 1 inch of gravel for adequate drainage, it doesn't belong in my garden. Having said that, I will admit to owning a few shallow containers---lessons learned in beginning gardening. For example, I bought this lovely three-tier planter in my early gardening years. The largest basket is at the bottom of the tier with a depth of 5 1/2 inches, the center basket 5 inches and the top basket measures in at a whopping 4 1/2 inches, thus the additon of the coconut liners which add an extra inch or two of depth. Instead of being sited in full sun on my westerly exposed back deck which was my original intention, the lovely three-tier planter resides in the shade of my easterly exposed front porch. Even so, successful growing in these shallow baskets requires daily watering and, depending on the type of planting (supertunia and sweet potato vine), daily feeding.

Container types
Simply from a durability standpoint, I prefer concrete, resin, and fiberglass over wood, ceramic, and metal. I especially like the new urns and pots that are made of a stone/fiberglass combination (stonecast) for the tough exterior quality and yet easy movability. Plastic on its own is tacky---just my own personal opinion.


Container shape
As long as a container has depth and is made of durable material, the shape is merely a matter of preference. The exception is in the hanging basket. I want my hanging baskets to acheive that nursery-like gargantuan fullness with the ability to grow and bloom from mid spring planting all the way through summer into fall. Therefore, the only shape suitable to meet my expectations is the cone.
The cone offers the most optimal surface area for healthy root development. The cone in the picture is 24 inches in diameter and 28 inches long. The large diameter allows for multiple plantings without crowding and the spacious depth offers the roots a place to stretch out and grow. Most hanging baskets become root bound within a few weeks and then the flowers suffer.
The construction is a combination of coconut fiber and sheet moss over wire. These cones are very large, requiring eyebolts driven into studs to keep them secure and stable. And, because of the weight put upon the eyebolt, only potting mix not potting soil should be used. These cone baskets can be found at any nursery. I bought mine from Farrand Farms.
Not to be overwhelmed, (I've been told by more than one nursery worker that people buy these baskets and then return them) nurseries carry several smaller sizes. I noticed this past season that even the big box stores are starting to carry the smaller cones as well. Just remember, the smaller the cone the less area for root development. By the middle of summer, the foliar diameter of this cone basket was easily six feet.
When the container is considered first, the results are nothing short of dramatic.

Monday, November 10, 2008

Agastache (for beginning gardeners)

(first in a series of postings found under the label: beginners)

Whenever I read an article whose target audience is beginning gardeners and whose topic focus is perennials for beginners, I am appalled at the same old, tired recommendations: Enchinea, Rudbeckia, and Sedum. Of course I understand the reasoning, these are easy to grow, fairly fail-proof perennials. They are lovely. I have several types of each in my own gardens. But, please! Give them a much deserved rest. Especially when there are so many other equally as easy to grow choices.

At the top of my list is Agastache. I can't imagine trying to cultivate cottage garden style beds agastache cana sinningwithout it. I use it extensively throughout my gardens for three reasons: 1) abundant, constant color, 2) quick to establish lush fullness and 3) upright growth habit. Most species of Agastache are tall, growing between 15 and 36 inches. My first introduction to this genus was the species Agastache Cana Sinning. Superbly outstanding to any other beginner's perennial I've ever tried. Sinning, once established, is both drought and heat tolerant. It reaches an average height of 18 inches. I like to plant Sinning in the middle of my beds. Give it some room. It becomes full and lush very quickly. It's best attribute is its constant, abundant color. Sinning produces lovely lavender-rose hued flowers that bloom all summer.

My favorite of the Agastache Cana is Heather Queen. It produces bright pink sprays of non-stop blossoms from summer until the first fall frost. Heather Queen is tall, between 30 and 36 inches and is extremely hardy. I plant it in my gardens' sunniest locations. agastache cana heather queenBy the end of August, it is spilling over and through the picket fence. Breathtaking. I can count on it to look fresh when other flowers are wilting under the summer sun.


Agastache has many admirable attributes. It requires no deadheading to stay in bloom. Bees, hummingbirds, and butterflies are highly attracted by it. The foliage is pungently fragrant, giving off a licorice scent when touched. Most varieties will thrive in poor soils as long as they have adequate drainage.


A word of caution: not all Agastache are winter hardy above zone 5. Check with your own local nursery to see which species is right for your area. I buy mine at the Family Tree Nursery, a full service garden center providing zone 5 plants for Kansas City gardeners.

Thursday, November 6, 2008

Pink Girl Tomatoes and other High Yield Vegetables

I don't know how many times some one has said to me, ". . . you're so lucky you have such a green thumb." Possibly, but I'm not sold on luck. One's ability to have a successful garden isn't in the luck but in the devotion. My thumb is also dirty from pulling weeds and calloused from dragging the water hose. In my opinion, getting lucky in the garden equates to a growing season of favorable weather conditions.

High Yield Harvest=Commitment

I guess its not surprising then that the question I'm asked most often is: Which varieties produce the greatest yields? I think any gardener will say that's all a matter of opinion. None of my neighbors grow the tomato variety I swear by every season and yet we all have high yield harvests. I think half the joy of vegetable gardening is being able to share opinions. The following is a list of my favorites:

pink girl tomatoPink Girl Tomatoes: I've been growing this variety for sixteen years and I've never wanted for lack of tomatoes. They are unusual in that they set both single fruits and fruit clusters. It's nothing to have five to eight tomatoes in one bunch. They can be a bit fussy to get started because they are not cold tolerant at all. But, once they get growing, I've had vines stand at ten feet tall. The fruit itself is sweet and solid with thin skin and less than average seed production. The fruits are usually about 6-8 ounces but I've had some grow to the size of a softball. I like them for both slicing and cooking. They also freeze well.

Roma Italian Green Beans: I quit growing all other types of green beans simply because the Roma's produce twice as many pods as any other bush bean I've sown. Not only are they heavy producers but they also grow twice as large as other green beans without getting tough. The Roma has a flat, smooth pod. From my experience, germination and harvest time is equivalent to other green beans varieties.

Armenian Yard Long Cucumbers: Not only is this cucumber a real producer but it is highly unique in appearance. Growing up to three feet long, it has a ridged outer skin that stays pale green in color. The Armenian seldom gets pithy, consistently producing solid, white flesh that is crisp and mildly flavored.

Semi-dwarf Okra: I don't have a favorite variety within the semi-dwarf line. I grow this type because the plants don't get huge and try taking over the garden. I find that the semi-dwarf produces just as much as the tall Okra varieties. Okra is a prolific producer, requiring daily monitoring because the vegetables grow quickly and become tough.

Jade Cross Brussel Sprouts: I had sixteen of these plants in my garden this season and they produced 8 beautiful gallons of sprouts. This variety holds up well in the heat and humidity of a Midwest summer with adequate amounts of water. The sprouts were well formed and were mild in flavor.

danver's half long carrotsDanver's Half Long Carrots: I only plant one 32 ft row of these to keep us in carrots all winter long. And, they are good keepers. I've had them stay nice and crisp until late winter with proper refrigeration. I plant a row in the spring and other than water, they require little care until I harvest them in the fall. Danver's has a nice, sweet flavor. The flesh is bright orange and fine grained. These carrots average about 7 1/2" root growth but they can grow almost as long as regular varieties. I think carrots really respond well to raised bed gardening which is the particular type of vegetable gardening I subscribed to. The raised bed allows excess water to drain away so that the carrots don't get bogged down and rot.
Flat Dutchman Cabbage: These cabbages grow more oblong than round but they are dense and solid and resistant to cracking. It's nothing to pull a ten pounder out of the garden when they are ready to harvest. They are probably the best for heat tolerance when getting to the end of their growing season. They have a medium to strong flavor. The Flat Dutchman are great keepers with proper refrigeration.

Watermelon Mantang Hong Radish: An awesome radish for both flavor and presentation. The outside skin is white at the root and green closer to the foliage. When sliced, the rosy red center is revealed. Lovely. The Watermelon Mantang Hong Radish is a bit slower to germinate and produces after regular radishes but they grow twice the size, some up to 3 1/2" in diameter, while maintaining a sweet flavor. Never hot.

New Zealand Spinach: Another unusual variety, this leafy green must be planted after fear of frost. Unlike other spinach, this grows well all summer. Cutting it backs just promotes more growth. The seed is large and can be soaked in water prior to planting to aid in germination. It has a fairly strong flavor. The leaves are great for raw use in salads but they also hold up great in stir fry.

Early White Vienna Kohlrabi: Superior growth makes this vegetable from the cabbage family a real winner. Unlike it's cabbage cousin, it doesn't seem to be bothered by heat. I planted these at the end of June and they produced just fine. Flavored like a cabbage but textured more like a turnip, the meaty white flesh stays solid and crisp.

Ghost Busters Eggplant: When these little plants start producing, look out. It's nothing to see a dozen white eggs hanging from its branches. These eggplant don't get nearly as large as the regular black beauty eggplant but I think they stay solid longer. I also think they are a better keeper. I can't tell any difference in flavor.

black beauty zucchiniYellow Crookneck Summer Squash: I think anyone who's ever grown these has a horror story of how out of control they can produce. Great for frying and baking. They also freeze well. I slice them up and put them in freezer bags and use them for Summer Squash Casserole all winter long.
Black Beauty Zucchini: An old time favorite, Black Beauty is great for steaming, stir frying, and baking. This zucchini makes a lovely cake as well. A super producer. It stays solid as it grows large. Unfortunately, the squash bugs love this squash and I'm constantly doing battle with them over this vegetable. It's worth it.
I garden in zone 5. Hopefully, this list will help answer some of those questions asked about varieties and yields I hear so often. Whatever you decide to plant this next season---Happy vegetable gardening!

Wednesday, November 5, 2008

Along the Picket Fence: Seven Sisters Rambler Rose

I was a military brat. There was no white picket fence around my many yards. What I learned about gardening then was scratched out in patches just large enough to grow a tomato and a few marigolds without forfeiting the security deposit. I suppose when I chose the bones (the hardscaping which anchors the landscaping) for my present day gardens, it wasn't just to establish boundaries for garden beds. I needed to delineate a place called home.

The white picket fence is a thing of beauty, enhanced only by proliferous blooms spilling through the empty space between vertical supports. The following spring after our house was built, we set about installing all the fencing. The fence took our property from barren lot to established residence; the white pickets gave it curbside charm. Then, by adding the curving flow of garden beds to further define the greenspace, our new build became quintessentially characterized.


  • To quickly add curving, flowing garden beds without going to great expense, I suggest using rolled edging. This type of edging immediately defines the bed from the greenspace and is essential in the control of weeds. The rolled edging is also a nice barrier to weedeat against.


One of the first perennials I planted along the picket fence was my Seven Sisters Rambler Rose. seven sisters rambler roseI can't recommend this variety enthusiastically enough. What a hardy specimen! In the past four years, Seven Sisters has weathered every extreme condition the Midwest climate can dish out. It has tolerated two severe droughts and a horrendous late spring freeze that wiped out some fairly stealthy perennials. The name Seven Sisters is derived from its multiple bloom sets, as many as seven roses per cluster. Often thought of as the romantic wild rose of the Old South, Seven Sisters arrived in Europe, and later in the United States, in the late 1800's from Japan.

Mine begins to bloom around the last week of May and continues typically through the first week of June. From the palest pink to the deepest orchid, the array of color is breathtaking. The double blossoms are profuse and resemble the cabbage rose on a tinier scale. Unfortunately for those of us who cherish this rose, it blooms only once per season.

Just this past summer, my Seven Sisters rose began to send out long, whispy canes. I can hardly wait for spring '09. Imagine the beauty of those double blossoms spilling over the white picket fence.

Sunday, November 2, 2008

Bee Aware

A friend of mine works for a nursery. She tells a funny story about a customer who approached her for advice on planting an extensive flower garden. I guess the design the customer described was elaborately loaded with annuals and perennials. They were in the middle of hammering out the details when they ran into a snag. It seemed the customer was adamant about not wanting to plant flowers that would attract bees. (Gardeners go ahead and chuckle.)



white spider dahliaI like bees. I'm particularly fond of the honey and the bumble. This past spring, we had a swarm of wild bees come into the garden. I found them a bit too aggressive for my taste but after a while we learned to tolerate each other. I got stung only once. As I was walking across the yard, I scooped one up with my flip-flop. Certainly not the bee's fault.


Unlike the wild bee, the honey and the bumble are fairly amiable creatures. My experiences with them are all good. I love how they move in waves in front of the water wand as we go about our respective businesses of pollen collection and garden watering.

It's amazing to watch them at work. I've seen bees so laden with pollen, its a wonder they could still fly. We can thank bees for about one third of the American food supply annually derived from plant production. Without bees, plants can't set and if they can't set, there goes the garden, the orchard, the farm. I could rant about Colony Collapse Disorder and preach about the perils of food shortages. Instead I'd rather share a few light hearted anecdotes about the bees I've met in my garden.


The bumble is very personable. A noisy, little fellow (actually workers are females but for the gist of the story . . . ) showed up one day and I nicknamed him Buzzsaw. For two weeks, I could tell just where Buzzsaw was located in the garden simply by listening. As if I hadn't noticed him, he liked to approach me and hover at ear level. Then there was the bombardier. I'm certain this poor bumble was nearsighted because he lacked the grace of his peers in flight. He wasn't much of a pilot, crash landing with such momentum the intended target (the flower) of his desire would try to catapult him back into the air. And lastly, there was Sleepy. I spied this bumble in slumber curled like a comma in the center of a peony, wings slightly aloft like rudders navigating the breeze while it slept.


The honey bees tend to be a bit more interesting as groups. I love to watch their ballet over a fragrant clump of red clover or hear their late afternoon concerto as their orchestra tunes up in the sweet basil patch. A couple summers ago, an entire colony stopped to rest in my garden. Apparently something had driven them from their previous home. They huddled in a football -shaped mass around a picket post, vulnerably waiting while the scouts went in search of new accommodations. I was a bit intimidated by their sheer number as I gently watered the flowers around that post. About four days later, right before dusk, the scouts alerted and the entire hive rose as one dark shadow into the sky. I wished them Godspeed. I hope they found a good home.