Showing posts with label additives. Show all posts
Showing posts with label additives. Show all posts

Wednesday, June 17, 2009

Spectracide Immunox 3-in-1: Combating Diseases that Arise from Elevated Temps Heating Moisture Soaked Ground

Here in the heart of the country, we've been having some pretty significant storms. (Those of you in Drexel, MO, our prayers are with you for a quick recovery.) The rain fall totals, at least in the KC area, are above normal according to our weather forecasters. At Blessing Hill our grounds are ponded in places. The flower and vegetable beds are soaked. The tractor wheels churn water when I'm hauling around the trailer. But, it's not all bad. This has been great for the perennials, shrubs, and trees we've planted this season. At last count, I believe we were up to 16 new trees alone. I'm grateful not to be dragging the water hose or paying rural #6 those increased water rates.

And luckily for us, up until now, the temperatures have stayed an unbelievable 70's for the most part. These first 15 days of June were unlike any I've ever seen---chilly mornings for sleeveless shirts. Well, today that's coming to an end. We are going straight from comfortable to downright miserable with above normal temps and sweltering humidity. What might be great weather for my tropical weather loving friend the pink tiger lily pictured above, isn't such great weather for plants prone to fungus like Oenothera speciosa Siskiyou, Mexican Evening Primose, featured in the second picture. It prefers to be on the dry side. When its roots stand in moist, warm soil, a powdery film develops on its leaves. This is also said for most types of tall phlox. It's not detrimental to the plant's well being but it looks bad and the leaves don't fill out.

I'm an advocate for limited use of chemicals in the garden. But let's face it, sometimes it's necessary. Before applying a chemical fungicide, you could try spraying plants with a mixture of 1 teaspoon baking soda, 1/4 teaspoon vegetable oil, and one quart of water to control powdery mildew. Unfortunately, that didn't work on my Siskiyou. However, what seems to have good results is a product from Spectracide called Immunox 3-in-1 Insect & Disease Control Plus Fertilizer. This product is a combination of insecticide, fungicide, and fertilizer. I sprayed my Siskiyou with Immunox and the problem subsided for about four weeks which is pretty typical with this type of all-in-one fungicide. With the powdery mildew gone, the leaves were able to become lush, supporting new growth.

Yesterday, I noticed that nasty leaf blight beginning to develop on my tomatoes. Once that gets started it's a nightmare to combat. The first thing to do is pull back any mulching material and allow the sun to begin drying the soil around the plant. This also improves air circulation which is crucial in healthy development. Pick up any plant debris and dispose of immediately. Remember, don't compost any part of a tomato plant to prevent future contamination. Water early in the day to allow foliage to dry before evening. Since just a few of my plants are infected, I decided to take preventative measures. I don't want the fungus to spread to my other tomato plants. I got out the Immunox and read the label from beginning to end but there was no mention of use on tomatoes. Every chemical manufacturer lists contact information included in the labeling. I called the toll free number and spoke to a product specialist who assured me that Immunox was safe to use on the tomatoes. I'll let you know how it did in a future posting.

Immunox is also designed to work well on roses prone to black spot. I plant mainly shrub roses for their ability to withstand disease. Imagine my dismay with my David Austin's Mary Rose shrub rose when it developed black spot. It was my understanding that the Mary Rose was the most consistent and tidy performer of all English roses. Well, it might be elsewhere but not in my garden. (Still by and far my favorite is Lady Elsie May who I think outshines all other shrub roses.) Mary Rose sprung to life this spring with a robust vigor and bloomed profusely before shedding all her leaves to black spot. I've sprayed her with Immunox and I'll also let you know how that fairs in a future posting.

Here's a list of diseases Spectracide Immunox 3-in-1 cant prevent and/or treat:

Black Spot

Brown Patch

Dollar Spot

Powdery Mildew

Rust

Blight

Leaf Spot



Insects it kills:

Aphids

Spider mites

Leafhoppers

Bagworms

Cicadas

Cankerworms

Webworms

Inchworms

Leafminers

Mealybugs

Thrips

Whiteflies

And, when applying Immunox, the plant receives a dose of fertilizer albeit a minor amount. I would suggest continuing with whatever fertilizer program you use.

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

For What Didn't Bloom This Spring: Phosphate = Flowers






















I planted my first wisteria the spring of 2005 and the second wisteria the fall of 2006. Imagine my distress when one spring after another came and went without either vine producing one skimpy bloom. Now, compound that disappointment with a Robinson crabapple and four white dogwood trees that also refused to bloom. The common denominator in this varied problem is cold, wet soil. Phosphorus becomes less available to plants, shrubs, and trees when the soil is clay and the temperatures at bloom time are cold.

The soil on our property is beyond poor. I can dig down two inches and come up with a spade full of orange yuck. When we plant anything, we dig the hole twice as big as need be and back fill it with compost. This gives new roots a chance to get going before they contend with the crud. Unfortunately, new roots have to get there eventually and when they meet the clay, the absorption of crucial minerals diminishes.

This spring I was determined to see blooms on my wisteria. The first of March I began dosing my wisteria with ferti-lome Blooming & Rooting Soluble Plant Food. It has a ratio of 9-59-8, ---59% phosphate derived from ammonium and potassium phosphate. I gave each wisteria three good doses and I had a really nice showing of blooms. I'd given my Robinson crabapple and four white dogwood trees only one dose. I managed to get a few weak blooms. That's okay. I now know how to rectify the problem.

I began reading up on phosphate and learned that I should top dress (sprinkle around the drip or root line) my gross feeders with super phosphate in the fall. Gross feeders include peonies, crape myrtles, lilacs, iris, crabapples, dogwoods, and wisteria, just to name a few. If its supposed to bloom in the spring and it doesn't, that's a good indication of a gross feeder. Then in January or February, I should again give each another dressing. This will help to enhance the growth and color by strengthening the stems and increasing the blooms.

A couple of gross feeders that rely heavily on phosphate are mums and dahlias. Superphosphate should be dug in directly at the root line for them. When planting bulbs, mix superphosphate or bonemeal with the soil in the bottom of the hole. Blooms will have a richer, deeper color.